"This is the last stop, please get off the train"

There is something eerie about hearing those words. It makes you feel like you are at the world's end. Which is wrong it is just the city's end.

We start this journey at Howard.

The Stop

Howard is not simply a Red Line stop, but also services the Purple and Yellow lines. The Purple Line is a full fledged line that makes 7 stops throughout Evanston and travels express to Belmont and then goes into the loop. The yellow is an auxiliary of 2 tops taking people to Skokie.

The stop itself is quite large for that reason, and contains a pretty impressive track configuration. The other thing that you notice when you get to so many stops on the CTA system is this comment to "art" or whatever this is.

There is access to a bus depot an a large parking lot. It belies that you are not really in Chicago anymore.

The Neighborhood

The stop lies right on the border of Chicago and Evanston, with Howard Ave. being the dividing line. When first exiting the station, there is a fear that you are going to be transported into a typical suburban downtown such as one appearing near a Metra stop.
That is not true.

Immediately you can sense the unique culture of African and Caribbean immigrants. Yes there are pizza joints and "Greek places" (We will get into what a Greek place means to a Chicagoan in a future), but there is a Belizean restaurant and African dress shops.

As I pass Wylie Park, I hear a drumline assembled playing ferociously, which is pretty incredible given the fact that it was 45 degrees. But to be fair, for Chicagoans that is practically balmy.

There are definitely signs that the neighborhood is not at full peak. Too many empty storefronts tell that story.

As I walked by I saw the Sol cafe. It looked like it could have popped out of Wicker Park 8 years ago. I walked in and heard hipsters gathered talking about a bike rental business idea (apparently Divvy bikes are 'too corporate'). I left almost immediately.

The Ba(ke)r(y)

So, I promised I would go into a neighborhood bar for every stop. But, I went to Howard at around noon, and there really isn't a bar open nearby.

Instead, I found the Caribbean-American Bakery.

Found at 1539 W. Howard, the simply ordained location looks and feels like a standard bakery. But then you notice, that it is not danish or longjohns but unique Caribbean fare on offer. I went for the pineapple upside down cake, which should be simple and standard.

It was so, so good. The cake was incredibly moist, but somehow the pineapple had lost none of its flavor. I asked if I could eat inside, and I was told it was fine. That would not be my standard advice, because there isn't any of seating. (Maybe take you baked treats on a nice day to Wylie Park close by)

I then noticed, that they also have a jerk kitchen. They serve jerk chicken and pork, patties and so much more.

You can find the menu here http://www.caribbeanamericanbakery.com/

What you also find, is what I was looking for in a bar. The spirit of the neighborhood. People come in and have the food they remember from there home and speak to people that have the same accent that they do. Something that use to define so many Chicago neighborhoods, for better or worse.

I would rather have that than a non-corporate bike rental business any day.

Who? What? Why? How?

Welcome to Red Line Journeys!

I am going to answer some questions you may have about this.

Who are you?

My name is Kiernan Ambrose. Grew up in DuPage County and move into Chicago in 2012 when I was in law school.

What is this blog about?

I am attempting to hit every stop on the Red Line and using that to describe the neighborhoods and traditions of the people and places that surround these stops. I think things will make more sense as we go on.

Why are you doing this?

Attention? No, but seriously, I recently was coming home on the Red Line and noticed that I had still not been to over half the stops on the line. I feel this is a great way to find new aspects of our city.

How are you going to be doing this?

Obviously by stopping at all the Red Line stops. But, there will be a formula to each post.

The first spot is the Stop. You have to start right when you get off the train. Is it nice? Is there anything unique? Do you feel that vermin are about to eat you whole? That will be the initial part of the experience.

The second spot is the Neighborhood. This will mean walking around a neighborhood and getting a flavor for it. Can you tell what ethnic groups were there first? Can you tell who lives there now? How gentrified is it? What are they really proud of?

The final spot is the Bar. You can't tell a story about Chicago without talking about a bar, and this will be no exception. Here you can talk to the locals, and usually nobody knows a neighborhood better than the bartender.

If you have things I need to check off your spot, let me know! I want to give the best story possible. I am going to the far north side starting with Howard and we will see how far down we get today.